BEAMS BOY

An Interview with Fuuko Asayama

Would you tell us about the brand?

BEAMS BOY is based on men’s clothing, but not simply imitating the menswear that already exists, but rather expresses a new style through the BEAMS BOY filter while respecting the details, characteristics, and stories that have been passed down in each item. Our collection is based on categories that can be found in menswear. That is, Trad, Work, Military, Sports, and Outdoor. In each category, we care about the details and features each clothing has, and aim to produce wardrobe pieces that can be loved for a long time. It’s amazing that these details are still used today since it was born and there’s always a reason and story behind it. We want to respect this and how it has been inherited until today. I think BEAMS BOY is not a brand focusing on the trend, but aiming to produce wardrobe pieces that can be loved for a long time.

I think this concept is very unique, especially in the women’s fashion world. How did it start?

BEAMS BOY was born in 1998, when streetwear and American casual style (it’s called “Ame-Kaji” in Japanese) was a big movement. But these styles were only found in the men’s clothing brands and stores, so it was difficult for girls to find the perfect size and fitting. Many girls went to the vintage clothing stores and looked for menswear items or kid’s size vintage items that could fit them. So, one of the BEAMS staff members had an idea to create a new brand that incorporates the details from menswear targeting women, which became BEAMS BOY. This is why many of our pieces are based on the designs from the vintage items. BEAMS BOY was new and unique at that time, being featured in some magazines. It was normal to see a long queue outside the store.

It’s remarkable that the brand continues to pursue the same concept since it has started. Can I hear the process of making the collection?

First, we gather some images and inspirations from movies and books which we are interested in at the moment, and put them together into one moodboard. Then, see which category (Trad, Work, Military, Sports, and Outdoor) fits this mood. Usually it’s not only one but can be two or more. For example, when the concept was “BEAMS BOY New York”, the images from suitcase and traveling items with many pockets connected with the idea of pocket details found in the workwear items or outdoor style. It’s important that we create a collection that is based on one of the five categories. Then we do a lot of research on colors, sizing, stories and histories behind the clothing and visiting many vintage stores. We love vintage clothing, so it is normal to sample the design from the vintage items owned by our team members. By the way, my recommendation for vintage shopping is Koenji in Tokyo.

It is essential for us to create a new moodboard every season, because fresh ideas will make BEAMS BOY more fascinating and exciting.

I think the unique styling is also a key element to describe BEAMS BOY. Do you have any styling tips?

Mix and match is essential when thinking about BEAMS BOY styling. One of our favorites is to style menswear items with feminine details like laces or pearls. For example, military pants and white blouse with a lace collar. Or mix the categories, for example Trad items like a blazer jacket and Military items like thermal long-sleeve tops.

What do you keep in mind as a director of BEAMS BOY? Especially after the brand started to expand globally?

When introducing the brand outside of Japan, buyers are the first ones to see our latest collection. I want to attract the buyers by showcasing the styling samples or exhibition space that has a similar atmosphere as our flagship store in Harajuku. Especially introducing the five categories or explaining the details of each piece in a simple and understandable way is what I want to focus on. If the buyers truly understand our concept and value by this communication, I believe that they can present BEAMS BOY in the most attractive way to store staff and customers. And in the future, I would like to meet the customers/fans in each city and communicate with them, like I do in Japan.

What’s the plan or wishes in the future?

We would love to plan an event or collaboration items, and meet the local customers in person. Having BEAMS BOY space in the store would be fun too! There are so many ideas we can do together. It’s a big pleasure starting to work with HHV clothing and having a chance to showcase our collection to Berliners.

Shop BEAMS BOY online at HHV.

Interview by Iku Sasajima